19
Jan

What I am reading this week

- Suspicion can make an environment hostile to a camera, as American National Public Radio (NPR) photographer David Gilkey discovered on his 16 day Trans-Siberian journey. Sometimes, we compromise on the original vision of how you want to shoot something. We’ve all been there in one situation or another. The Iphone has proven handy as an inconspicuous alternative, as have other smaller toy cameras and point and shoot.

I love the interactive project “Russia by Rail” put together by NPR, with excellent writing, audio and slideshows. Russia holds a soft spot for me, and I know one day, I’ll experience the Trans-Siberian route myself. One day.

- Along with millions of Chinese all over the world, I’ve decorated my homes both in Shanghai and Singapore in red and gold, in anticipation of the Year of the Dragon. How many ways can the Dragon be dressed up and gleam? Check this out.

- (Added) Just so you get the idea of the millions of people in China on the move and headed home in time for reunion dinner this Sunday night. Depending on your income and options, all channels are explored be it plane, train, bus, scooter and smuggling in all forms. This year, an expected 31.6 million (yes, imagine the rough population of Canada – 34 million) is expected to hit the road. (h/t Shanghaiist)

- I recently downloaded the podcast of Peter Hessler’s profile of the American crime reporter Jake Adelstein in the New Yorker, and will be sure to enjoy Hessler’s excellent writing. To my pleasant surprise, there is an accompanying photo essay by Haruto Hoshi who shadowed Adelstein through the Tokyo underworld.

- Eve Arnold, the Magnum photographer, passed away early January. All the major papers ran wonderful essays of her best images, including her vulnerable capture of Marilyn Monroe. You can glean more details from her obituary in the NYT. What I didn’t realize how petite she was, which I am as well, and I’ve always wondered if size mattered a great deal in perspective. Arnold was famed for her fearlessness and power, which I thought made her an inspiring role model for petite women (and photographers) everywhere.

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17
Jan

And the dragons come aflutter …

Picture 1 of 11

The din of nearby crowds rivaled the incessant car honking as I alighted by the main road. Mustering great vigor, I dove into the busy pedestrian area around the Fuyou Lu Wholesale Market (福佑批发市场) near Yuyuan (豫园). My mission was to acquire some decorations to bring home to Singapore to alert our neighbors that yes, Chinese New Year is coming and this time, the Dragon will breathe fire into the new year while the Rabbit scampers away, never to return until 11 years later.

The smell of street snacks mingled with loud bargaining by hawkers and customers alike. Festivities don’t officially get underway until next Sunday but the buzz and cheer of the most important holiday for many Chinese all over the world are already in full swing.

The street was awashed in swaths of red cloth and paper laced in glittering bits of gold. The endless paraphernalia associated with celebrating Chinese New Year never fails to amaze me. Last year’s shiny posters of gold-detailed rabbits have been replaced by dragons that reflect every mood: cute, regal, tacky, fierce and prosperous. The Year of the Dragon is deemed a good one – for babies, for businesses, for weddings and anyone who believes in the auspicious symbolism it embodies.

In the background, Chinese New Year songs blared at every corner, ranging from the traditional gongs and songs to sped-up techno, none of which did anything to sooth the tic developing in the corner of my eye.

Besides the dragon, the other traditional symbols of prosperity and wealth sold well among shoppers: hanging mobiles of fish, ancient Chinese ingots, firecrackers, all 12 zodiac animals bundled together and lanterns. I found myself tangled with two other matrons trying to pay for my Dragon posters, so overwhelmingly massive, the God of Wealth would be blind to miss my home. Next to me, an older gentleman amused himself with a stuffed toy hammer shaped like a dragon that irritatingly parroted “Gongxi Facai! 恭喜发财!Gongxi Facai! 恭喜发财!” over and over again as you bashed it on its head.

I imagined nimble hands all over the province of Guangdong working at blinding speeds through December and early January, churning out all these .. things … to satiate the depthless appetites of heady consumers.

Chinese New Year is not complete just with decorations. Grandmothers swarmed candy stores to stock up on sweet bites for expected visitors during the new year, migrant parents perused toys to bring home, and children took advantage of the festive atmosphere to wrangle presents. Almost everyone was seeking something new to wear or adorn themselves with. I watched a woman, hands red and puffy from excessive dish washing, stroking a gold bracelet lustfully as her daughter tugged her arm for a snack.

Not to be outdone by the shops, entrepreneurial mobile hawkers lined up in the middle of the pedestrian street to peddle even more (if at all possible!) knick knacks. A tall striking man displayed his wares by layering himself with multiple  flutes on strings, enticing passers-by with a lyrical tune. Another cheery man wore a winter hat shaped like a panda and helped children try on similarly shaped hats. Adorable, wind-pinched cheeks peered out under their furry hats at parents unable to resist their innocent glee.

And just like last year, I emerged slightly rumpled but triumphant with my procured decorations. Each January, I vowed never to throw myself at the mercy of Fuyou Lu at this time of the year. But I cave each time for it has become a festive ritual, and if you’re in town, I encourage you to do the same.

Just remember, hands tucked in on the sides, stiffen the spine and dive headfirst into the crowd.

January 2012

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13
Jan

What I am reading this week

- David Campbell, who teaches International Multimedia Journalism as part of the Beijing Foreign Studies/ Bolton University joint MA program, had environmental activist photographer Lu Guang as his guest speaker. Lu spoke about his resilience in documenting the many ongoing environmental crises in China despite the consequences.

Bottom up activism against environmental problems in China is very much alive as more Chinese are seeing a clean and safe environment to live in as a fundamental human right. NYT Lens did an excellent feature of Lu Gang’s work last year while NetEase (translated into English) interviewed Lu on how he overcomes the multiple challenges in capturing China’s many environmental crises.

- Lu Guang was also awarded the W. Eugene Smith Grant in Humanistic Photography. W. Eugene Smith was a LIFE magazine photographer was known for his vivid and gruesome coverage of the Pacific Theatre of World War II (as well as his “incessant perfectionism and thorny personality”). Here, Life republished Smith’s 1948 feature “Country Doctor”, an intimate portrait into the life of general practitioner Ernest Ceriani in rural Colorado. Considered one of the finest pieces of photojournalism of his time. Smith’s other iconic photo of mercury poisoning in Minamata Japan in 1956 was “Tomoko Uemura in Her Bath”. Devastating.

- Amidst the news of renewed economic sanctions against Iran as it builds up its suspected nuclear program, The Atlantic’s In Focus puts together a series of photos that more accurately reflects Iran’s people and society. A pleasant and alternative look into Iran’s youth, strong and independent women in action and day-to-day life.

For more, you can follow me via the blog’s Facebook page and Twitter.

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12
Jan

Grappling with Street Photography

Picture 1 of 9

I’ve been sitting on this series for a while. Well, not just this, there are a dozen others, but let’s talk a little about this one in particular.

There isn’t a specific or exciting story to tell. It was a thoroughly enjoyable day-long amble on a Saturday in Hongkou district (虹口区) which I ended with cramped feet but a happy heart. Everything came together: cool weather, sufficient light, optimal crowd density and diversity of characters. It was days like this that reinforced my affection for Shanghai.

Yet when I reviewed my work the next day, I felt uninspired, almost disappointed. I found some perspectives unoriginal and compositions lackluster, a bit of a waste given the pleasant circumstances. Where was the motion, flow and wit? One photo seemed like a variation of another barely a month ago.

It took weeks to filter a dozen shots I could live with, another several days to do another cull. I remain undecided, deleting another as I write this post.

So what of it then, you ask? It was an exercise for my own gratification, a weighing of one’s minor accomplishments. But really, it is a reminder of how difficult the process of street photography can be for some.

Many photographers consider street photography to be challenging, perhaps the most difficult of genres within photography. The random and often uncontrollable elements in composition and people’s growing sensitivities about privacy are just some examples. Ironically, these are also the reasons that drive some to embrace street photography.

Personally, I’ve had little trouble with photographing people in Shanghai’s streets, something I’ve discussed at length before. Where I find constantly challenged is in creativity, sustainability and speed, especially when detecting and assembling an interesting composition quickly.  The process is easily suceptible to weather conditions as it can by your emotional state. Often times, it can be both relaxing and frustrating.

My partner often teases me about being too hard on myself, and how little of my work I share (ironic given that I have a blog) but I discover this to be surprisingly common among some photographers. It’s not a vanity thing but rather about skill and expectations.

Last September, as part of organizing the exhibit “The Living Streets of Shanghai and The Hague”, I spoke at length with photographer Lu Yuanmin (陆元敏) who was the event’s guest speaker.

Lu 老师’s (or Teacher ‘Laoshi’ Lu as most call him out of respect) street photography, largely shot in black and white film, is concentrated in his hometown of Shanghai. Pushed by high contrast and heavy grain of the film, his photos exude a dreamlike feel (also a recurring theme in interviews). His inspiration “comes from visual memory; the moment of collision of memory and reality.” It is as if one is drifting through Shanghai with an invisible cloak, peering intimately (and fleetingly) into people’s souls.

When I asked him if he encountered much difficulty shooting in the streets, he acknowledged how angry some people can be and it has grown more difficult of late. Being exceedingly shy in public, Lu is adverse to conflict.

“When I notice an argument in the street, I tend to walk away rather than towards it.” he said once in an interview. All of this has shaped his stealthy approach in street photography.  Before, the Lomo camera used to be one of his many weapons of choice. Of late, he has switched to a toy camera which hung like a small key chain no bigger than his thumb.

Once, I blurted out that despite practice, I find myself with no more than 8 good shots after a long day of shooting.

“So many?” Teacher Lu remarked in surprise. “That’s quite good already. I usually have just one or two,” he laughed. My face reddened and I slunk deep into my chair. That only made me feel worse. Clearly, my bar of excellence wasn’t very high.

When shooting film, Lu insists on developing all of it himself, fearing others might see his “mediocre” work if he sent it off to professionals. There was nothing militant about his approach to photography, he really was that humble. Perhaps with fame comes growing expectations, and you can be your own worst critic. Despite decades of experience, even veterans still grapple with the process. But it is Lu’s passion for street photography that presses him on. Nothing was too trivial. Nothing was to be passed up.

And so, the weekend is coming. Another day-long amble is expected and the frustrating process of shoot and review will reoccur.

But I never said I’d stop. Did I?

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06
Jan

A review of 2011 (part four)

Well, this concludes the roundup of my review of 2011. Here’s to a fresh start for the New Year with the promise of more discoveries, new insights, better skills and underlying all of it: an undying passion for telling stories.

October: Mid October to early November, I embarked on a 3 week trip in Central Asia, specifically north and south of Kyrgyzstan (the above on a 10 hour drive) and Almaty, Kazakhstan, accompanying two researchers to document Chinese influence in the region. The result was this website I created “China in Central Asia”. You can also enjoy here, photo essay of Kyrgyzstan’s natural beauty.

November: I started a weekly “What I am reading” feature to share interesting photography related links. I hope everyone is enjoying them! One post which resonated with many readers was “The Posture of Youth”, a tribute if you will to the aspirations of millions of young Chinese trying to make it big in the city.

December: “Confessions in Desheng Lane (德生里)” was the first post and location I photographed after a long hiatus. The process of gleaning surprising stories from strangers and tracing the history of a brick to an old house in Hongkou, reminded me how much Shanghai had for us to discover.

A review of 2011 (part one) (part two) (part three)

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05
Jan

What I am reading this week

The first reading list of 2012! Enjoy.

- Invisible Photographer Asia has put together their top 10 most popular photo essays  ranging from Thailand’s lady boys, post-Tsunami Japan, religion in India to Dubai’s migrant workers. IPA has gone from strength to strength in their influence and promoting the work of Asia’s photographers. If you do not already follow their work, I urge you to make it a 2012 resolution.

- In the same vien, Time’s Lightbox puts together their best photojournalism essays for 2011. This is the equivalent of sitting down with a nice thick magazine with a hot cuppa. Enjoy!

- As we approach Chinese New Year where millions are preparing the long journey home to celebrate with their families, we are also reminded of the almost 58 million children left behind by migrant workers in China working hard to support families back home. Excellant series of migrant workers posing with blown up profiles of their children.

- Myrto Papadopoulos shows her initial work of “The New Plastic Road” which follows Liu Xin Jun, a Chinese truck driver, and Davlat, a Tajik merchandiser, along a trade route in the Pamir Mountains. In Lens, her work largely focuses in Tajikistan’s Badakhshan which suffers from the basic necessities. I look forward to the China portion of her work in due course.

- The Afghan Box Camera Project by Lukas Birk & Sean Foley provides a record of the kamra-e-faoree (instant camera) which as a living form of photography is on the brink of disappearing in Afghanistan. Fascinating insight into the the culture and history of photography in the country.

- I haven’t the greatest of urges to visit Hong Kong, despite living there for a summer, if food and shopping are the only reasons you can give me. Upon discovering these beautiful maps of Hong Kong’s heritage trails, in both English and Chinese, I’m looking into tickets right now. An excellant example of a public service good that is well designed and user friendly.

- Another day, another street photography collective. But this time made up of India’s best talent. I am always a fan of promoting the talent and great works of photographers from emerging countries. As always, I pose the question, are the perspectives very different? A very democratic street photography collective of Chinese talent exists over at Zaijietou (which means “in the streets” in Chinese).

For more, you can follow me via the blog’s Facebook page and Twitter.

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04
Jan

A review of 2011 (part three)

This is the third installment of my review of 2011. Picking a favorite story from each month is difficult. All posts take time, including research, photo editing and writing and re-writing each paragraph to the best effect. It can sometimes be tiresome, especially when I would linger on a post for weeks, to the point of it remaining stubbornly unpublished. And believe me, there are quite a few. I sometimes have to revisit the place to jog the memory of the details, smells and sounds.

Yet there are moments which pass you by as quickly as they come. A look, a body movement or a sound can trigger an entire composition never to be recreated ever again.

July: I published a piece on exploring the port architecture of Shantou in Guangdong, where the Old Quarters, while crumbling miserably, is a beautiful place worth visiting. The city is home to Teochews, a dialect group, of which the overseas disapora number over 30 million.

Another favorite is “Reflections at high noon”, a photo essay on the most unknowing inspiration for street photography.

August: I’ve often feature the Chinese street photography collective Zaijietou.com (在街头) as an example of the popularity of street photography among a select few in China. Here, an interview of Chinese and German perspectives on street photography in China.

September: In lieu of blogging, my September was packed with activities. My biggest event was  “The Living Streets of Shanghai and the Hague”, a video exhibit by Shanghai and the Hague’s best street photographers. I co-organized it with  Five Spices, a Dutch design company, and the exhibit was held in Shanghai and subsequently in the Hague.

One of the featured photographers of the above exhibit was Tan Tien Yun, whom I interviewed. Working in the one of the countless factories in Minhang, Tien Yun took the time to take in the the more rural aspects of Shanghai’s suburbs including the local migrant communities.

A review of 2011 (part one) (part two) (part three)

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02
Jan

A review of 2011 (part two)

It’s the second day of 2012. How are you doing on your long list of resolutions?

This is the second portion of my review of 2011, a list of my favorite stories on Shanghai Street Stories. I’d love to hear from readers: is there a photo or story that you have read this year (not necessarily the blog) that has made a considerable impression on you?

April: The highlight of the month had to be my visit to the North Korean border, specifically the Joint Security Area (JSA) (or referred to as “Panmunjeom” or “Truce Village”). Chilling, eerie but exciting. Highly recommended!

May: In the Old Chinese Walled city by the Huangpu River and the heart of Shanghai, I showed how migrants made homes in abandoned factories, and how a group of boys with great creativity and gusto, can be Shanghai’s next property developers. Also, an interview with my friend Ishi Mak, who captures Shanghai’s heritage architecture with a very Japanese aesthetic.

June: I started The Roving Exhibit in NOV10, which takes my street photography back to the neighborhoods I shot in the form of show and tell. I gave a presentation (including video) at the twocities Gallery and profiled the kinds of street patrons that attended the exhibit. It remains one of my favorite personal work.

A review of 2011 (part one) (part two) (part three)

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31
Dec

Happy New Year! and 2011 in review (part one)

In the tradition of pensive reflection of the past year, I present to you the blog’s ”2011 in Review”. Below is the first of four installments rounding up my favorite stories each month. Hopefully this will keep you entertained over the long weekend. You can also read my review for 2010 here.

The pace of old housing demolition in Shanghai has slowed a little in comparison to the frenzied activity prior to the Shanghai World Expo in 2010.  This might be related to the Chinese government’s strict property tightening measures to scale back the real estate bubble, and the general malaise of the global financial crisis. On a positive note, on a recent visit to a half-flattened longtang, residents tell me they are now protected by laws to prevent forcible removal from their properties until all negotiations are complete. While not universally enforced, I am hearted by the small development.

2011 for me has been a significant amount of traveling to new cities and countries. In addition to revisiting Berlin, London and of course, home in Singapore, I visited for the first time Dubai, Seoul (and a very exciting jaunt to the North Korea border!), Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan and Vietnam. It was a year of new boundaries and new friends and I expect 2012 to be more of the same.

I want to thank regular readers, faithful commentators (you know who you are!) and occassional passers-by for visiting the blog. I occupy a small sliver of space in the vast Internet but work hard to piece together the stories and photos for our mutual pleasure. As always, I welcome your suggestions on how to improve my photography and writing.

My best wishes of good health and happiness to you for the New Year! I leave you with one of my favorite quotes, something I remind myself daily and find very apt for fresh starts in general.

“Finish each day and be done with it. You have done what you could. Some blunders and absurdities no doubt crept in; forget them as soon as you can. Tomorrow is a new day; begin it well and serenely and with too high a spirit to be cumbered with your old nonsense.” ~ Ralph Waldo Emerson

January: Meeting Mr Cai (photo above) in Shanghai’s suburbs, whom I have designated “The Happiest Man in Shanghai”, was a fortuitous affair. I am reminded of his cheery optimisim at his old age which warms my heart each time I have a nasty encounter in Shanghai.

February: I was very glad to have documented the beautiful mosaic-tiled public service posters in Ruihua Lane (瑞华坊) which preached good manners and respect amongst the neighborhood’s residents. Unfortunately, the lane has emptied out in anticipation of razing.

On another note, my trip to the very sunny and excessively opulant Dubai.

March: One of my favorite photo essays on discovering life and color in dying neighborhoods undergoing demolishment. This one was in northern Jingan district, which I had rarely visited. Beauty often lies in character, and Shanghai’s old lanes are filled with them. Everytime you pass by an unassuming lane, make it a point to poke your head in.

A special mention of my contribution as co-author (along with Old Shanghai establishments including Tess Johnston) of the book “Still More Shanghai Walks” which we presented at the Shanghai Literary Festival and our booklaunch at the beautiful and quaint Old China Hand Cafe, where it is still available. I covered the former Jewish Ghetto and street markets of Tilanqiao.

A review of 2011 (part two) (part three) (part four)

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22
Dec

What I am reading this week

I hope this week’s longer list of links will be interesting holiday reading as we near Christmas. I’ll squeeze in one more post before I head off to Vietnam for a few days. Safe travels and Merry Christmas to one and all!

- A very interesting visual interpretation of Shanghai’s residents as lost and anonymous souls in an urban jungle. “Shanghai /Lost Identity” by Victor Garrido via the Invisible Photographer Asia

- The Financial Times featured Michael Wolf’s ‘100 x 100’ photo series inside Hong Kong’s Shek Kip Mei public housing estate where each apartment is measured 100 sq ft. The complex has since been demolished. Michael Wolf is widely known for his defining portrayal of cities, my favorite being the slightly depressing “Tokyo Compression”.

- Another interesting piece in the FT about the plight of Central Asian migrants in Russia facing growing discrimination. Formerly united under the Soviet umbrella, Central Asians find themselves diverging from the Russian culture. This was an active topic of discussion during my time in Central Asia.

- Burn My Eye is a new “international collective aiming to show the extraordinary within the ordinary using candid photography”. It currently features only 10 photographers. Jack Simon, whom I interviewed when he stopped through Shanghai, is included. Taiwan’s TC Lin appears to be the only photographer from Asia featured. Let’s hope to see more diversity as the site expands.

- The bespoke travel agency Wild China interviewed me recently. I thought I’d highlight a portion of my interview to solicit your opinion on how best to prepare to shoot in China, whether professionally or as an amateur.

Do you have any advice for photographers traveling to China?

Do your research prior such as visiting online forums/blogs/photo galleries of the cities you will be visiting, for ideas and feedback (I am a moderator on the Shanghai Flickr Forum which is very responsive and friendly). If you have more specific needs, work with a fixer (via journalists or local photography academies). For long distance travel, work with drivers/tour agents who are attuned to photographers’ needs.

Always, always go off the beaten path. Much of China is about presenting a good veneer for “face” reasons, so you’ll discover a great deal more behind the faux walls and renovated “Chinese-style” decor. As always, practice discretion and respect for private property. For cities, instead of just Beijing, Shanghai, Hangzhou etc, try Xiamen, Shantou, Chonqing, Nanjing etc. No doubt, Western China has many gems for landscape photography but set aside more time to explore rather than adhere to a tight schedule of photographic stops.

Finally, China is a friendly place to shoot and people tend to be quite open to being photographed. That said, basic manners and a smile goes a long way. If you promise someone you will send them a photo, make sure to follow up.

- I’ve really enjoyed The Atlantic’s Cities section, and they’ve rounded up the best City reads for 2011, featuring Shanghai (a good piece in the Smithsonian Magazine), Beijing (New Yorker’s Evan Osnos for Condé Nast), Detroit and New York.

- If you’re looking for a good book about great cities for the holidays, here are a few suggestions.

1. “Shanghai Country Walks” by Wilkinson, E. S. (1932 edition) (download the entire book here) might be alluring for those who like to live in the past. Wilkinson is a former British subject in Shanghai who enjoyed taking long suburban strolls outside of the foreign concessions in the early 1930s. I’ve printed my copy and hope to trek some routes with a friend this New Year!

The remark too frequently heard – “Oh, Shanghai isn’t China !” – may be true enough, but it does not apply to the country a few miles from the Settlement boundaries. Many of us have no opportunities frr travel in the interior of China, but we have at hand, with the aid of this little book, ready-made excursions into China and opportunities for observation that will take the sting out of the ancient taunt. ~ Edward Sheldon Wilkinson, 1932

2. “Beyond the Neon Lights: Everyday Shanghai in the Early 20th Century” by Lu Hanchao (University of California Press, 2004).  Lu weaves a rich tapestry of life in Shanghai’s alleys (or longtangs) and the local characters that colored the city in the early 1900s. A delightful cocktail of history, ethnography, sociology, literature. Lu’s conclusion is that as significant as the foreign concessions were in shaping Shanghai, many locals lived their lives relatively unaffected within the confines of their community.

3. If I could turn Shanghai Street Stories into a book, I hope it would be as intimate, engaging and colorful as Seketu Mehta’s “Maximum City: Bombay Lost and Found”. He covers every facet of Mumbai (though he, like many of the city’s older dwellers, prefers to call it Bombay) from the slums, criminal underworld, prostitution to Bollywood. Every metropolis is a never ending novel, and Mehta saves the best for his readers.

For more, you can follow me via the blog’s Facebook page and Twitter.

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